As we descended it began to get progressively hotter and dustier. And after 3 or so hours we made it to the bottom, a small town called Yolosa (1,100m/3,600 feet) deep in the Bolivian Yungas. I was amazed to be alive, and had actually began to enjoy the ride once I´d gotten the hang of it. I even managed to up my position in the group by one, giving up the last place position to a Colombian girl who was even more scared than I was. We were then driven to a hotel with a swimming pool to try and ease our quivering muscles and have some lunch. I definitely felt a sense of acheivement for managing to make it to the bottom. Thankfully I only found this BBC article after we´d been on the bikes, as I´m sure I would´ve chickened out if I´d read it before!
Friday, 30 January 2009
Escape from La Paz - Part 2
As we descended it began to get progressively hotter and dustier. And after 3 or so hours we made it to the bottom, a small town called Yolosa (1,100m/3,600 feet) deep in the Bolivian Yungas. I was amazed to be alive, and had actually began to enjoy the ride once I´d gotten the hang of it. I even managed to up my position in the group by one, giving up the last place position to a Colombian girl who was even more scared than I was. We were then driven to a hotel with a swimming pool to try and ease our quivering muscles and have some lunch. I definitely felt a sense of acheivement for managing to make it to the bottom. Thankfully I only found this BBC article after we´d been on the bikes, as I´m sure I would´ve chickened out if I´d read it before!
Wednesday, 28 January 2009
Amazonas Adventure
The next three days were incredible and within ten minutes of cruising down the waterway we were spotting Howler Monkeys, Turtles, all sorts of birds, Caimen and the alusive Pink River Dolphins. We reached camp by late afternoon which was situated on the bank of the river.
Customer service isn´t something you should expect if you come to Bolivia and Amazonas Airlines are the epitomy of this. Our flight ended up being delayed for five hours and we had to force them to store our luggage. Once we were about to leave for the airport we were told we would have to pay more money for a transfer to the military airport, as they´d rescheduled our flight from there! All I wanted was some sort of drinks voucher to make me feel like a valued customer or some stupid rep telling us what the hell was happening. Alas, no not here and not with Amazonas.
We eventually made it back onto the little plane, and took off headed for La Paz, sad to be leaving the Amazonian wilderness that had been incredible to explore.Wednesday, 21 January 2009
Escape from La Paz
Wednesday, 14 January 2009
Copacabana and Lake Titicaca
Copacabana sits beside Lake Titicaca and although it has a touristy bitterness it isn´t too bad a place. Time here was short however and dictated by there being no ATM. We checked into the hostel called La Cupula which was gorgeous, clean and overlooked the the town and bay. It was so nice in fact that we decided to stay for an extra night. We would have to change rooms and pay a little more which was fine, but the hostel actually had some trouble getting previous occupants out, resulting in our room being upgraded to a holiday cottage with private kitchen and bathroom - cashback! For the first time in Bolivia the weather really warmed up and the sun shone. On our third day we decided to get up early and catch the boat to the Isla de Sol, one of Lake Titicaca´s inca settlement islands. After a jam-packed two hour ride we arrived at the northern port and eventually arrived in time for a cafe con leche. The island is split into three communities and like everywhere in Bolivia everyone wants their piece of the cake. Consequently you´re supposed to pay a toll as you walk between the north, central and southern zones. The northern section is denfinately the more touristy as here lies the ruins of the Inca sacrifical sights. The island is stunning, and as you walk along the stone pathway from the north to the south the sun highlights the crop terraces built up by the Incas. We reached the southern end of the isle in about 3 hours but felt shattered due to the altitude. We found a bed for the night in a small hostel for 25 bolivianos (two pounds fifty!) and that night the temperature dropped. A hale storm insued and our tin roof amplified the giant balls of ice throughout the night. Tucked up under layers of blankets we woke to another beautifully clear but crisp morning over looking Lake Titicaca.
That morning we caught the early boat back to the mainland and jumped on the bus back to La Paz (avoiding the more expensive `Tourist Bus` that the tour operators on the highstreet try and sell you). By the afternoon we were arriving in La Paz amd immediately thrown into the hustle and bustle of this crazy, wintery and mountainous city.
Saturday, 10 January 2009
The Mines, The Giant with Gold Teeth and Sucre
The working mine began life for gold and silver but nowadays the extraction of minerals is all that remains. It has one of the worst, if not the worst health and safety records in history, and since it opened, 200 years ago, over 8 million people have died. Extraction is by hand and usually father and son teams do the work. Once you start working in the mine you have a life expectancy of ten years due to the asbestos and harsh conditions. So, of course, we decided to go down it for a few hours. The mine sits above Potosi at around 4600 metres and the tunnels go deep into the mountain. It´s a surreal and unsettling experience meeting a 17 year old boy 200 metres below ground digging for his livelyhood. We helped him dig out a section and load it up for 20 minutes, which was exhausting at that altitude. As I climbed back out of the small tunnel section using a series of wooden ladders and rock climbing skills I was face to face with asbestos fibres covering the walls. Whilst your down there, the custom is to give the workers coca leaves, cigarrettes and dynamite in return for you being a idiotic backpacker getting in their way. Mining is still the main industry in Potosi and so it is set to continue for many more years to come. On my way out I met the 17 year old´s Dad who was returning to load up a truck with 1 and 1/2 tonnes of rubble, each truck may get him and his son 35-45 Bolivianos (3.50 - 4.50 pounds).
That afternoon the three of us were off to Sucre, the judicial capital of Bolivia, and the fastest way was by taxi. We thought nothing could be as uncomfortable as the bus the day before but we were mistaken as myself and H were joined in the back by a giant Bolivian man dressed from head to toe in denim. The drivers music was blarring out 80s classics remixed by a Bolivian pan pipe band as the giant turned to us and smiled displaying his full set of gold teeth. The journey was spent leaning into bends as our driver hurtled round corners beeping at people and livestock crossing the road that he was heading for. After 2 hours of this we arrived in Sucre and were pleasently suprised by its palm trees and colonial arcitecture - a far cry from Potosi.
Through default we found a great hostel called La Dolce Vita. It was modern and clean, and unlike a lot of Bolivia so far, did not smell of wee! The days passed too quickly in Sucre whilst we recharged our batteries in this beautiful city. It is time to move on and from Sucre we are heading to Lake Titicaca and the lakeside town of Copacabana.
Monday, 5 January 2009
The Atacama and The Salar de Uyuni - Bolivia





Thursday, 1 January 2009
Año Nuevo in Valparaiso





