Colombia is without exaggeration an incredible country. The landscapes and people change beyond recognition within a few hours and arriving in Cartagena was like stepping into another world. From the bus terminal we pelted along in the clapped out taxi towards the old town. It was 7am the morning heat reminded me of Africa and the streets were packed with people and animals. We stayed in Cartagena for a couple of nights, the area called Getsemani a dirty, rowdy and slightly dubious barrio just a 5 min walk from the Old Town was perfect. As was the little Colonial hotel San Roque we had been pointed in the 
direction of, for just 30,000 pesos a night (9 pounds) for a lovely room with bathroom and enough fans to make it sound and feel like sleeping on a helipad. Most of our time was spent exploring the historic town centre within the town walls, full of beautiful colonial buildings with bougainvillea strewn balconies, large plazas, fruit sellers, and a few groups of Americans following their umbrella touting guides from the cruise ships. In the cool and breezy evenings we were tempted to the Cafe del Mar bar on the old town walls, loungy sofas and tables with chill out music created the perfect place to watch the sun go down with an ice cold red wine and a Cuba Libre.
Four hours east along the coast you arrive in Taganga, a small fishing town just outside the city of Santa Marta. Santa Marta twenty years ago was infamous as an outlet of the cocaine trade to the USA and Europe. Today, it is a huge dusty city and not very appealing when Taganga is just fifteen minutes away. As we dropped down into the bay of Taganga the beach complete with fishing boats and pink tourists came into view. Taganga is by no means a hide-away haven and it has become famous on the backpacker trail. However, the scuba diving was our main draw and at fifteen pounds a dive it was incredibly cheap!
We spent three nights in Taganga, diving and sunbathing on Playa Grande, a beach twenty minutes walk around the cliff. The beach with only a handful of cafes could be tranquil if it weren't for the beach sellers from hell... if I wanted to buy an ice cream, a beer, have a massage, hire a deck chair or take to the water on a sea kayak I would ask, I don´t need to have the question every two minutes!!! Nevertheless, serenity and peace was found underwater and we went to a couple of great dive sites, with 15-18 metres visibility, we saw Lobsters, Moray Eels, Hermit Crabs, Trumpet fish, Cow fish, Queen Angel fish, Puffer fish and a lot more. Once back on dry land and as is the norm these days we bumped into the Belgian Bikers, Paul and Singrid, who we originally met in Salento. We spent that evening sinking a couple of Cuba Libres and Han´s favourite tiple - cold Colombian apple wine - with them.
The following morning we were planning to head towards Parque National Tayrona and we did, well, after I snuck in another couple of morning dives that Paul had tempted me with that previous evening, as the rum was flowing. The diving this time was a bit more challenging and the current was very strong around the first site, a small isle of rock and coral. However, as the waters can get very rough there, it was exhilarating to see this unique site that not many go to. The second site was a little more sheltered and with an initial descent to 6 metres we swam a few metres until we reached the 'wall' - a vertical drop down to 20 metres. It was unbelievable swimming into darkness as the small worlds of coral and their fish gradually appeared.
Once Han finally dragged me away from the sea we were back on the bus heading 2 hours further east, towards Tayrona. The national park is stunning, once inside an hours walk through jungle with monkeys swinging above you, you come out onto white sand beaches and leaning palm trees...and nobody trying to sell you some tat! We camped in an area called Don Pedro surrounded by jungle and two minutes from the beaches. It is collection of thatched shacks, tents and hammocks and we got breakfast from a lady near the camp who bakes sweet bread rolls filled with chocolate each morning. We explored the Robinson Crusoe esq beaches during the day of which the park has several. Some have wild seas and bolders the size of a houses, driftwood that looks like its been traveling for years and other bays as calm as a pool. It was a spectacular place and another unique side to Colombia. 
No comments:
Post a Comment